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Esjay
Cruiser Fan
Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 3:25 AM
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Timing Belt Change
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What is the recommended interval for changing the timing belt on an '01 P/T? What should it cost to change it as well as the other belts and the water pump? How many hours labor are needed? I also have been told I need a pully and a tensioner. ----------
(This post was edited by Esjay on Apr 15, 2008, 3:29 AM)
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Posts: 27 | From: Monroe, Louisiana
| Registered: Sep 20, 2000, 12:00 AM
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ALJDIAMANT
Cruiser Buff
PT Cruiser Club Member
Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 6:27 AM
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Re: [Esjay] Timing Belt Change
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I am a retired owner of a large repair shop. Regardless of the 100KM recommendation, we advised our customers to play it safe. We recommend every 60KM. The timing belt on the PT cruiser is a *****. We can do a Honda in an hour. Our best mechanic takes four hours to change a PT Cruiser timing belt. At $90 an hour figure the labor cost. Because the job is so labor intensive it is an economical move to replace the water pump, and the tensioner/pully. ----------
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Posts: 56 | From: N/A
| Registered: Apr 9, 2008, 4:50 PM
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ALJDIAMANT
Cruiser Buff
PT Cruiser Club Member
Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 6:30 AM
Post #3 of 23
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Re: [ALJDIAMANT] Timing Belt Change
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Wow!! Is this site super sensitive it ***** my description of a female dog... ----------
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Posts: 56 | From: N/A
| Registered: Apr 9, 2008, 4:50 PM
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eldersptgt
Cruiser Expert

Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 1:26 PM
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Re: [ALJDIAMANT] Timing Belt Change
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The Canadian PT want to have the timing belt changed at 100,000 KM?!? The USA versions are at 120k miles...! that is over twice as long. ---------- 04 "SRT-4" PT Cruiser w/ AutoStick (in Sea Mist Green, 1 of 146) Stage 1, Mopar BOV, MagnaFlow exhaust, Mopar 7.5mm wires, Mopar-Bosch Plugs gapped at .035, Mopar air filter, unrestricted air box, H&R sport springs, Progress 27mm front sway bar, Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, 06' tail lights, 06' Hood emblem, T-handle on rear glass, SRT-4 badges, factory chrome accent group, chrome door cups, 8" Mopar sub, ArmourFend ClearBra.
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Posts: 313 | From: El Dorado Hils, Ca
| Registered: Jun 15, 2007, 6:33 AM
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eldersptgt
Cruiser Expert

Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 1:31 PM
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Re: [Esjay] Timing Belt Change
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Its about a $750 to $1200 Job depending on where and who does it. The water pump and tensioner are a must on since it will only be the cost of the parts for install. Change your drive belts and your Drive belt tensioner pulley if it needs it. some do some don't. Not fun or easy on these guys. Is your PT a USA or Canada model? ---------- 04 "SRT-4" PT Cruiser w/ AutoStick (in Sea Mist Green, 1 of 146) Stage 1, Mopar BOV, MagnaFlow exhaust, Mopar 7.5mm wires, Mopar-Bosch Plugs gapped at .035, Mopar air filter, unrestricted air box, H&R sport springs, Progress 27mm front sway bar, Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, 06' tail lights, 06' Hood emblem, T-handle on rear glass, SRT-4 badges, factory chrome accent group, chrome door cups, 8" Mopar sub, ArmourFend ClearBra.
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Posts: 313 | From: El Dorado Hils, Ca
| Registered: Jun 15, 2007, 6:33 AM
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ALJDIAMANT
Cruiser Buff
PT Cruiser Club Member
Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 1:48 PM
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Re: [eldersptgt] Timing Belt Change
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That is why we recommend 60,000 miles. I can't explain the descreptancy. We had one strip the teeth off the belt at 110,000. I forgot to mention that on the Turbo engine the AC must be discharged and disconnected to remove the timing belt cover. ----------
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Posts: 56 | From: N/A
| Registered: Apr 9, 2008, 4:50 PM
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eldersptgt
Cruiser Expert

Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 1:54 PM
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Re: [ALJDIAMANT] Timing Belt Change
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Yea i have heard that i know a few guys who skip that step and flag the time anyways... i hope mine gets totaled or blows up by the time my 80K mile warranty comes up. ---------- 04 "SRT-4" PT Cruiser w/ AutoStick (in Sea Mist Green, 1 of 146) Stage 1, Mopar BOV, MagnaFlow exhaust, Mopar 7.5mm wires, Mopar-Bosch Plugs gapped at .035, Mopar air filter, unrestricted air box, H&R sport springs, Progress 27mm front sway bar, Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, 06' tail lights, 06' Hood emblem, T-handle on rear glass, SRT-4 badges, factory chrome accent group, chrome door cups, 8" Mopar sub, ArmourFend ClearBra.
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Posts: 313 | From: El Dorado Hils, Ca
| Registered: Jun 15, 2007, 6:33 AM
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ALJDIAMANT
Cruiser Buff
PT Cruiser Club Member
Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 3:36 PM
Post #8 of 23
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Re: [eldersptgt] Timing Belt Change
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Top mechanics make good money when they are capable of shortcutting procedures to get to the fix. Like that Honda timing belt I described as taking one hour. The FLAT RATE MANUAL calls for three hours labor. All shops pratice this. Trying to find a good mechanic in a non-flat rate shop is virtually impossible. ----------
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Posts: 56 | From: N/A
| Registered: Apr 9, 2008, 4:50 PM
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southbark
Cruiser Buff
Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 7:41 PM
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Re: [eldersptgt] Timing Belt Change
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Quote: Yea i have heard that i know a few guys who skip that step and flag the time anyways... i hope mine gets totaled or blows up by the time my 80K mile warranty comes up.
I was curious eldersptgt you live near sacramento do you know any good places that can install front and rear sway bars ----------
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Posts: 78 | From: N/A
| Registered: May 23, 2006, 1:44 AM
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eldersptgt
Cruiser Expert

Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 8:43 PM
Post #10 of 23
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Re: [southbark] Timing Belt Change
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I can do the front and rear sway bars in about an hour. They are EZ!! Just need a floor jack, jack stands and i think a 13, 14, 15 and 17mm Sockets and a ratchet. (Check check and check) Why you need some put on? The rear springs for a leveling kit are gravy too on these pt's. ---------- 04 "SRT-4" PT Cruiser w/ AutoStick (in Sea Mist Green, 1 of 146) Stage 1, Mopar BOV, MagnaFlow exhaust, Mopar 7.5mm wires, Mopar-Bosch Plugs gapped at .035, Mopar air filter, unrestricted air box, H&R sport springs, Progress 27mm front sway bar, Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, 06' tail lights, 06' Hood emblem, T-handle on rear glass, SRT-4 badges, factory chrome accent group, chrome door cups, 8" Mopar sub, ArmourFend ClearBra.
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Posts: 313 | From: El Dorado Hils, Ca
| Registered: Jun 15, 2007, 6:33 AM
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eldersptgt
Cruiser Expert

Posted: Apr 15, 2008, 8:46 PM
Post #11 of 23
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Re: [ALJDIAMANT] Timing Belt Change
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Quote: Top mechanics make good money when they are capable of shortcutting procedures to get to the fix. Like that Honda timing belt I described as taking one hour. The FLAT RATE MANUAL calls for three hours labor. All shops pratice this. Trying to find a good mechanic in a non-flat rate shop is virtually impossible.
I know that one i used to work for Toyota. 2.2l Camry 4cly are about a 45 min. job book calls for 2.8 or something. ---------- 04 "SRT-4" PT Cruiser w/ AutoStick (in Sea Mist Green, 1 of 146) Stage 1, Mopar BOV, MagnaFlow exhaust, Mopar 7.5mm wires, Mopar-Bosch Plugs gapped at .035, Mopar air filter, unrestricted air box, H&R sport springs, Progress 27mm front sway bar, Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, 06' tail lights, 06' Hood emblem, T-handle on rear glass, SRT-4 badges, factory chrome accent group, chrome door cups, 8" Mopar sub, ArmourFend ClearBra.
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Posts: 313 | From: El Dorado Hils, Ca
| Registered: Jun 15, 2007, 6:33 AM
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eldersptgt
Cruiser Expert

Posted: Apr 22, 2008, 8:35 AM
Post #12 of 23
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Re: [southbark] Timing Belt Change
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Big O tires in downtown Sacramento. 16th and L. see Jared ---------- 04 "SRT-4" PT Cruiser w/ AutoStick (in Sea Mist Green, 1 of 146) Stage 1, Mopar BOV, MagnaFlow exhaust, Mopar 7.5mm wires, Mopar-Bosch Plugs gapped at .035, Mopar air filter, unrestricted air box, H&R sport springs, Progress 27mm front sway bar, Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, 06' tail lights, 06' Hood emblem, T-handle on rear glass, SRT-4 badges, factory chrome accent group, chrome door cups, 8" Mopar sub, ArmourFend ClearBra.
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Posts: 313 | From: El Dorado Hils, Ca
| Registered: Jun 15, 2007, 6:33 AM
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rsobhian
Cruiser Expert

Posted: Apr 22, 2008, 11:14 AM
Post #13 of 23
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Re: [ALJDIAMANT] Timing Belt Change
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Quote: ...I forgot to mention that on the Turbo engine the AC must be discharged and disconnected to remove the timing belt cover. Discharging the A/C is not unique to turbo engines and is part of the deal for all models (with A/C anyway ). The reason is that to change the timing belt the engine mount on the front of the engine (right side of the car) needs to be removed and the engine needs to be jacked up on that side. There is a coupler built into the A/C lines that sits on the right shock tower in front of the engine and the A/C lines need to be decoupled from there to allow the lines to move up with the engine freely. If you have the A/C charging tools it is easier to discharge/recharge the A/C and go with the plan Chrysler had in mind. I was doing some research to see what was involved and whether or not I wanted to do the job on our '01 LE (now with 101K miles), and if I were to do the job, I was thinking of disconnecting the A/C compressor from the engine block instead of disconnecting the lines. Given all that is involved, however, if I can get someone to do it for up to $700 or there abouts I think I'd come out ahead paying the $$$ vs. my time and aggravation. ---------- 2001 silver Limited-Touring (leather/suede, 4W disk, traction, heated mirrors & all :-) Mods: Tokico HP all around / Energy Suspension Master Kit / K&N drop-in / R1 Concepts drilled & slotte disks all around / Enkei RPF1 16x7 wheels & Conti Extreme Contact rubber / Prestige APS620 remote starter
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Posts: 425 | From: MA
| Registered: Aug 2, 2007, 7:47 PM
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ALJDIAMANT
Cruiser Buff
PT Cruiser Club Member
Posted: Apr 22, 2008, 12:29 PM
Post #14 of 23
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Re: [rsobhian] Timing Belt Change
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I only had a Turbo to look at. Do the AC couplings require a special tool to disconnect? ----------
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Posts: 56 | From: N/A
| Registered: Apr 9, 2008, 4:50 PM
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rsobhian
Cruiser Expert

Posted: Apr 22, 2008, 12:39 PM
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Re: [ALJDIAMANT] Timing Belt Change
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As I recall, the couplings don't - just open-ended wrenches should do. Before the lines are disconnected, however, the system should be discharged and that requires the special machine/tool. ---------- 2001 silver Limited-Touring (leather/suede, 4W disk, traction, heated mirrors & all :-) Mods: Tokico HP all around / Energy Suspension Master Kit / K&N drop-in / R1 Concepts drilled & slotte disks all around / Enkei RPF1 16x7 wheels & Conti Extreme Contact rubber / Prestige APS620 remote starter
(This post was edited by rsobhian on Apr 23, 2008, 5:21 AM)
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Posts: 425 | From: MA
| Registered: Aug 2, 2007, 7:47 PM
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ALJDIAMANT
Cruiser Buff
PT Cruiser Club Member
Posted: Apr 22, 2008, 5:11 PM
Post #16 of 23
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Re: [rsobhian] Timing Belt Change
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Thank you. I was just too lazy to look. I do have manifold gages, evacuation pump, and scale. ----------
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Posts: 56 | From: N/A
| Registered: Apr 9, 2008, 4:50 PM
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r1volta
Cruiser Fan
Posted: Apr 27, 2008, 6:31 AM
Post #17 of 23
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Re: [Esjay] Timing Belt Change
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I just changed my timing belt yesterday. I had 112,000 miles on the car. It took 4 hours just to get to the belt. I will email you my steps. ----------
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Posts: 10 | From: N/A
| Registered: Nov 19, 2006, 8:06 PM
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sent1
Cruiser Expert

Posted: Apr 27, 2008, 9:23 PM
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Re: [r1volta] Timing Belt Change
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By all means post them here please. There are others that could benefit from your experience thanks. ---------- DC1 #1610--5-speed. Its got some stuff. '03 Inferno Red--Its getting some stuff too!
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Posts: 424 | From: Salem, Oregon
| Registered: Apr 14, 2007, 8:56 AM
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r1volta
Cruiser Fan
Posted: May 1, 2008, 5:42 PM
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Re: [sent1] Timing Belt Change
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Here is what I have typed up so far. I will do the completion later. PT Cruiser Timing Belt Change(non turbo) 1. The first thing you need is a flat hard surface to work on. 2. A floor jack or a lift. You will be lowering and raising the engine 3. Good H.D. Jack stands to raise car a high as you can. You will be under and over the engine 4.Metric tools and a good HD harmonic balancer puller 5. Order a complete timing kit with water pump and tensioner and belts. 6. Remove air filter cover and box 7. Remove battery 8. Jack up car and remove right front wheel 9. Remove plastic inner splash shield 10. Remove upper torque strut and its mounting bracket. The bracket is held on with 18mm nuts(2) and 1 bolt. I used a 18mm deep socket ½ drive. They are very tight. 10a. Disconnect AC connection in front of top belt cover. Not necessary but will save some time and grief later. 11. Take off accessory belts. You can easily get to the tensioner through the wheel well. 12. Fully loosen alternator and remove if you can. You must back the adjuster fully off. The alternator will have to clear the AC dryer can when you raise the engine. 13. Take off the 4 nuts holding the exhaust pipe to the manifold. The bottom 3 are easer from underneath with 3/8 drive extensions or multiples. 14. Remove the grille. Remove the 4 screws on top. Push down to disengage the grille side clips and gently pull up and out on the grille to disengage the Bottom clips. 14a. I removed the upper radiator support to have easier access to the Power steering. Three bolts on left and right and one in the support bracket. This is a good opportunity to remove the fan assembly if you need more room. Six bolts and a plug. 15. Peal back the rubber panel on the left side of the radiator. You will access the power steering pump bracket from here. 16. At this time you will want to drain the power steering fluid and the radiator coolant. Leave radiator cap off. It will be in the way of the power steering hose. 17. Disconnect temperature sensor on radiator fill neck 18. Unbolt power steering reservoir and set aside. Bracket bolts are underneath. 19. Remove the 3 power steering pump bolts. Use long 3/8 extensions accessing from right side of radiator. 20. Remove the bracket bolts. Access from front on left side of radiator. 21. If you can get it off remove the pump or at least get it away from the motor mount assembly. 22. Remove top belt cover. 23.Align timing marks on cam gears and crank. 24.Remove harmonic balancer. Take bolt out with impact wrench. Use 3 jaw puller to remove. I used a heavy duty puller that had removable arms . The ends would only fit into the slot at a angle . I then reattached the arms. They were thick enough so they would not slip out of the slots. Be careful, the puller will be under a lot of tension. Its a very tight press fit. 25. Now support the engine with a jack or an engine crane with a soft strap.. Put a board on top of jack to avoid damage to the oil pan. 26. Remove the lower torque strut front bolt. 27. Remove the motor mount through bolt. it’s a 55 torque bit. 28. Remove the 3 motor mount bolts. You will have to raise and lower the engine to get them out. 29. Now remove the mount. It will come out the top with a great deal of difficulty. You will have to move the AC lines and pry the engine to the right. 30. Remove lower belt cover. One bolt is behind right side of mount by power steering pump. 31. Recheck timing marks on gears and crank. 32. Remove the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley. You will be replacing the tensioner and the idler if you have one. 33. Remove cam gears. With engine fully raised you can use and impact with a long extension to remove the gear bolts. 34. Now remove the rear belt cover. You can now see the water pump bolts. 35. Remove the pump. Its easier with the engine lowered all the way. 36. Clean the surface and install new pump. ----------
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Posts: 10 | From: N/A
| Registered: Nov 19, 2006, 8:06 PM
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r1volta
Cruiser Fan
Posted: May 2, 2008, 5:15 AM
Post #21 of 23
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Re: [Duster] Timing Belt Change
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I have heard of estimates around $1000-$1200 including all parts and belts. Timing belt, belt tensioner,belt idler,alternator and AC belts,waterpump, antifreeze,thermostat ----------
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Posts: 10 | From: N/A
| Registered: Nov 19, 2006, 8:06 PM
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Patrick78
Cruiser Buff

Posted: May 2, 2008, 5:41 AM
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Re: [r1volta] Timing Belt Change
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I had a terrible experience with my last car (2000 Passat 1.8T) when it came to the timing belt. Dealer recommendation was 105K which of course is 5K over the factory warranty and everybody on the forums that I went to suggested that the job be done prior to 90K if you didn't still have the factory warranty. So i went to one of the well known part sites for Audi and VW to order the full timing belt package. It was a great price and came with everything that I needed. The forum site I used also had a VERY detailed tutorial on how to do the job which included a ton of pictures. Unfortunately I could never get an free time and ended up taking it to a shop to do the install of my parts. It turned out that the water pump gasket that came with the kit was just the typical "paper gasket" type and the thicker rubber gasket from the factory was what was required. With the thinner paper gasket the bolts were bottoming out side the block. So you think and it feels like they are torq'd tight, but there wasn't actually enough pressure on the gasket to seal it. So after the job was all done, he took the car for a ride and when he came back the water pump was leaking. Point of the story being that the job should have cost me about $800-$900 but with having no warranty on the parts from the installer and having to pay for his extra time to redo the job with the correct gasket, that dealer quoted price of about $1000-$1200 wasn't so bad. That extra couple hundred dollars buys you piece of mind for those of us that don't have the time or the ability to complete the job ourselves in a confident manor. ----------
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Posts: 64 | From: Woodbridge, Va.
| Registered: Dec 28, 2007, 1:44 PM
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djsamuel
Cruiser Buff
PT Cruiser Club Member

Posted: May 2, 2008, 5:53 AM
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Re: [r1volta] Timing Belt Change
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Great instructions! The only point I would make is that I did not have to drain the power steering fluid and remove the pump. I just unbolted it and moved it to the side. The shop manual states not to drain and disconnect the power steering pump. Other than that, looks like you hit everything except the random periods of profanity! Actually, it's not as bad as it sounds, especially when you do it a second time because you mis-aligned the timing marks! Doug ----------
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Posts: 59 | From: Clermont, FL
| Registered: Feb 19, 2008, 7:44 AM
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